Down and Dirty DYI Timing Light / Test Light

By Wizard

Ok, so I have had my points crap out on me and I am going to install a new set with condensers. This is a straight forward process and I will do a write up on it later but it brought about this quick tip I thought I would share. I am in need of setting my timing and I don't have a timing light. What is a fellow to do? Well if you are poor folk like me you make one. All you need is two alligator clips (I got a six pack at the autozone for 3.99), a couple pieces of wire (I cut mine about 8 inches), a bulb (I stole my taillight bulb) and electrical tape. 

 

 

Strip both ends of your two wire pieces and attach the alligator clips to one end of each wire.
Now take one bare wire and lay it out on the side of the bulb and tape in place. 
Take the other bare wire and lay it across the bottom of the bulb and tape it in place.
Now use accordingly.

When done put your bulb back and toss the wires in to tool bag. You will always have a timing light/ test light when you are on the road. Total project cost was about 4 bucks or free if you got alligator clips sitting around. 

 

Repurposing

Wizard repurposing a lawn mower trailer to make a bed for his trike. Badass use of what you've got.

 

Changing brake pads

By Motorhead

I needed to change my brake pads and found very little info on the process. I have HD rear calipers and the info on the web is scarce so I wanted to document the process. I think I might make a little video as well but for now pics have to do. Tools needed are a flat head screw driver (not too big but long will help), a 12 point 1/4" deep well socket and rachet (you might have to file the sides of the socket a bit to thin the wall since the pins are in a recessed pocket) and thats it. This method does not require you to drain the brakes or anything. Just remove two pins, pull the old pads, slide in the new pads and put the pins back. That's it.

The above arrows point to the two caliper retaining pins, only remove these and not the larger ones or you will loose your brake fluid.

 

Now they are loose go ahead and pull them all the way out and slide your old pads out. the screwdriver comes in handy for this. Pay very close attention to the orientation of the pads and which pad goes on the inside and which goes on the outside, they are different.

Here's me removing the old outer pad. Once the pads are removed use the screwdriver to push the pistons back in to make room for the thicker newer pads.

 

 

 

Now, starting with the outer pad first, slide it into place looking into the bolt hole to line it up. Start with one hole and use the screwdriver down the hole to do it. Put in one of the pins and then do the other hole. At this point the pins are sticking halfway out but through the front pad holding it in place. Now slide the new rear pad into place and line up one hole at a time, pushing the pin through the rear pad.

 

 

In the above picture you can see down slots in the top of the caliper and see the pins pushed through into the holes of the rear pad. The front pad is not visible from these holes. Once everything is in place and the pins have lined up both sets of pads tighten everything down to the manual torq specs. I'm not sure what that is because I don't have a manual. I just tightened them firmly. Not too tight, it is aluminum and you dont want to strip the threads. Check the brake and if it works take it for a spin and put it to the test. Easy cheesy quick and easy.